Purnalulu

From Halls Creek we travelled to Purnalulu National Park. The park is accessed over 53km of 4wd track. The planned length of our stay was 5 nights, and with 2 parties the selection of camp site took on epic proportions, with endless rounds of the possibilities and discussions of tent and van orientations. So many considerations… afternoon sun, morning sun, mosquitos, toilet access? Eventually, with input from the camp hosts, we managed to select and erect camp and settle in.

Purnalulu is a massive expanse of weathered rock, conglomerate to the north and softer sandstone to the south. The softer sandstone is what gives rise to the iconic bee hive shapes the rock forms in it’s southern areas.

The main activity once one is in the park is walking, and after the first 4km return walk our children had had it…… no more walking if it were up to them! We partially ameliorated this problem with a GPS running watch and a box of jelly beans. For every 500m walked a jelly bean was issued… and we got through the remainder of the short walks. Each of these walks invariably lead to some amazing chasm or natural rock formation and many were indeed breath taking.

If Purnalulu from the ground is impressive there is no comparison to seeing it from the air- we took a 30 minute helicopter ride to see the rock formations from the air and it was indeed spectacular. It was a great way to appreciate the sheer scale of the place. I have but one word of advice for those people with longer hair contemplating a doors-off helicopter ride…. Tie it back!

Some time during the following day I managed to undo the dred locks which had formed in my hair. My parents looked after the kids so we could enjoy a rare bush walk without constant whingeing.

There is no permanent water in Purnalulu over the dry, and this may be the reason there are no animals to be seen except for the occasional furtive skink and an abundance of cane toads. To make up for the lack of animals there was an abundance of birds, including double barred finches, bower birds, white crested rock pigeons, quail and red winged parrots.  The presence of cane toads was a bit depressing, these ugly beasts seem to be everywhere.

Bowerbird bower along the track

Two days into our Purnalulu stay I embarked on my first baking of bread for the trip. This was my planned solution for the lack of bakeries in this part of the world but my practice run prior to departure was a total failure (burnt on the bottom but otherwise passable, except the kids asked, why did you make it so floury and doughy?). The loaf I lovingly slaved over I am probably more proud of than my child’s last report card. Fresh bread for lunch!

At the end of our 5 nights we bade Annie and Ashley farewell.... and it was on to the next destination, Fitzroy Crossing for us and Kunanurra for Ashley and Annie.