Kununurra, Katherine, Darwin and in between.

From the wilds of the Gibb River road we entered the relative civilisation of Kununurra, a town which I knew only as the former home of Turia Pitt and the location of a caravan park which let you use as much water as you liked (rare). Said caravan park was located on the edge of Lake Kununurra, a very picturesque location but, at this time of year, a tad windy as the south easterly whips across the lake. Not to mention frosty of the evening. Having made it across the desert and through the higher parts of the Kimberley where it is still getting rather cold at night, Kununurra night time temperatures broke us and we were forced into Target to purchase Hugo a quilt. Where this additional item, along with the many others we seem to be collecting, will be stored it remains to be seen, but it did allow us to reclaim our second blanket and let us also sleep in relative warmth and comfort.

Highlights of our Kununurra visit:
- boat trip up the Ord river to the base of the dam wall (a 110km round trip), where we saw amazing birds, plentiful freshwater crocs and a beautiful sunset 
-Tim catching his first (very small) Barra at the Ivanhoe Crossing (losing $30 of tackle in the process)
-taking in the sheer size of lake Argyle and the immense quantities of water involved
-dipping our toes in the Lake Argyle resort infinity pool and deciding it was far to cold to spend $10 per head for a swim in it
-very respectable coffee
-being in close proximity to bitumen, a bottle shop and a supermarket.

Lake Argyle dam wall

Time to move on- we are leaving in 5 minutes....

Five Rivers lookout, where the Ord, the King, the Pentecost, the Durack, and the Forrest rivers meet 

Tributary off the Ord River

Tributary off the Ord River

After 4 nights in Kununurra, during which time we caught up with and said goodbye to many friends we made on our way over the Gibb, we headed east (this will become a theme), and crossed back into the Northern Territory. 

The time difference meant that mornings suddenly became later and less friendly, albeit with the benefit of more day light in the evening time. Our first NT stop was Gregory National Park, where we had a delightful overnight stop, and our first experience this trip of having an entire camp ground to ourselves. The tranquility was short lived, as early the next morning we scored neighbours, and the ranger came to visit and kept us company while his volunteer cleaned the toilet. After the constant crowds on the Gibb however it was splendid to revel in some solitude. A bit like being at home!

definitely not 2WD access to campsite, Gregory National Park

bike riding in PJ's....

morning walk before heading out to Katherine

From Gregory we pressed east and spent another pleasant night in Katherine. We achieved nothing more in Katherine than cleanliness (of car, trailer and body), a good meal and a decent coffee before we left to head to Darwin and vowed to return before long. We landed in Darwin to find ourselves next door neighbours to fellow South Australians friendly with some distant relatives. We proceeded to indulge in all of Darwin we had fond (and distant, for the kids) memories of. We visited Darwin with the kids 6 years ago and they have been banging on about returning ever since. Now we are actually here, it is entirely apparent that the children have no recollection of the place whatsoever, and their continual badgering to return is just learnt behaviour. So we have taken them to all the places they loved the first time around, fish feeding at Doctors Gully, the wave pool, Berry Springs, Mindil Market, the Territory Wildlife park. 

bread again for the fish at Doctors Gully, they don't seem to mind

lunch at Stokes Hills Wharf

Berry Springs for a cool off in the afternoon- Mondays are tough

Given that they were toddlers the last time they were here, this time we have taken free reign to drag them to all sorts of WW2 "educational" attractions and they have decided that wars are actually quite ridiculous and unfathomable, an attitude which I am taking as progress. Darwin is the biggest centre we have visited since leaving home so we have also visited our fair share of shopping centres, making up for many weeks which were (reluctantly for some) retail free.

Tomorrow we leave Darwin for Kakadu- and the next adventure. 

this weeks injuries: injured knee from splash park, persistent blocked nose secondary to dust, more sore toes probably related to thong wearing (accompanied by a suspicion that giving the habit up would be for the good)

notable wildlife sightings: fresh water crocodile, black bittern, nankeen night herron, southern boobook, white browed crake. 

The Gibb River Road, or Seventeen Days Without Mobile Coverage.

The Gibb River Road runs for 600 odd km in the northern Kimberley- it is dotted with station stays and national parks with many waterfalls, gorges, swimming holes and rivers along the way. There is no mobile coverage anywhere, scant grocery supplies and NO TAKEAWAY ALCOHOL WHATSOEVER. We spent 17 days on the Gibb, and could have spent a lot more if many of the eastern attractions were not still closed after the wet season. Still, there was plenty to keep us busy.

Sir John Gorge, Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary

Ubiquitous Kimberley boab

Galvans Gorge

One early highlight was our visit to Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary. It is run by a wildlife conservation group and it offers overpriced camping to support it’s conservation work. The Sanctuary is home to many species of threatened wildlife including planigale, Gouldian finch and the northern quoll. We saw none of these. We did see plenty of other animals, birds and the aptly named rocket frog, whose aerial acceleration allowed it to escape capture from our mini Steve Irwin, Hugo. The cane toad has just arrived here, so it’s impact is as yet unknown, but seems to be taking an early toll on the large lizards. It was heartening to see this group doing such valuable conservation work over a large area of the Kimberley, when such a small area of it is protected as national park and much of the rest is given over to cattle grazing.

Green tree frogs in the men's toilet, Mornington

Froglets, unidentified, Drysdale River

The Kalumburu road meets the Gibb about half way along. Astonishingly this road leads to Kalumburu, but is also the access for the Mitchell Plateau, the site of Mitchell Falls, the largest waterfall in the region. The road into the falls is infamous for breaking axels and suspension as it is rough, allowing a speed of only 30km/h and less if towing a trailer. Partly because of this, we decided to leave our little collapsible home behind and check into a wilderness lodge up on the plateau. Setting out without the trailer, Tim hit the Kalumburu Road with such gusto that at one point the car became airborne. After 6 weeks in our trailer the safari tents with ensuite at the lodge seemed like luxury. The kids were terribly excited, especially when Hugo learnt that he would get to sleep on an innerspring mattress with a quilt!! 3 nights of 3 course meals, cooked breakfasts and no dishes was an indulgence. We visited the falls, doing the mandatory walk and the almost mandatory helicopter ride out, and had a full day off which the kids spent monopolizing the pristine swimming hole in the creek. Then it was back to the tent.

Mitchell Falls

Hanging at the pool, Mitchell Plateau

Lower Mitchell Falls from the air

Crossing the river to get to Manning Gorge hike

Big Merton's Falls, Mitchell Plateu

water lilies, Mitchell Plateau

El Questro Wilderness park is at the western end of the Gibb, and was our last stop. It is close enough to Kununurra that that we were able to make a resupply visit and embarked on out last 4 nights with fresh fruit, vegetables and wine! El Questro is probably the most well known location on the Gibb and this big (a million acres) property is big business. It's rather like a national park, but with the options of luxury accommodation, horse rides, restaurants, etc etc. We had a private campsite overlooking the Pentecost River, and from here dragged Hugo and Zoe on plenty of walks up gorges, swims in hot springs, and on the last morning we took a family horse ride, where Zoe's horse decided he was not going to cross the river but would rather eat grass, and Tim's watch sprung off his wrist mid water crossing.

Pentecost River Crossing, Gibb River Road (had to cross it 3 times to get this shot!!)

Just after watch recovery, El Questro

There were many other stops, all variations on the outback station/gorge/waterhole theme. 

Manning Gorge falls

El Questro Gorge

aboriginal rock art, Mitchell Plateau

kids delighted at bushwalking again, Mitchell Plateau

Zoe's second fish, Pentecost River at El Questro

The interesting thing about travelling this route (as with other similar routes), is that after a while you keep seeing the same people, again and again. Most people follow a similar itinerary so the people you meet whilst they may disappear for awhile, will suddenly pop up again at another spot down the road. 

Most photographs I had seen of the Kimberley must have been taken in the wet, with lush green vegetation and huge waterfalls. The reality in the dry season is dust. Everywhere. Through the trailer, in your ears, up your nose. At some locations the dust was combined with thick smoke from burning off. It was welcome change to get to some lawn and a hose at the other end.

morning smoke, Drysdale Station

Notable Wildlife Sightings: many many frogs, fish, salt water crocodiles, birds of all types, snakes, cows.

Gibb River Road Injuries: plentiful insect bites and violent scratching of such, a painful big toe secondary to prolonged wearing of thongs, a rolled ankle.

Earliest Grown Up Bedtime: 7:55pm