The Gibb River Road, or Seventeen Days Without Mobile Coverage.

The Gibb River Road runs for 600 odd km in the northern Kimberley- it is dotted with station stays and national parks with many waterfalls, gorges, swimming holes and rivers along the way. There is no mobile coverage anywhere, scant grocery supplies and NO TAKEAWAY ALCOHOL WHATSOEVER. We spent 17 days on the Gibb, and could have spent a lot more if many of the eastern attractions were not still closed after the wet season. Still, there was plenty to keep us busy.

Sir John Gorge, Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary

Ubiquitous Kimberley boab

Galvans Gorge

One early highlight was our visit to Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary. It is run by a wildlife conservation group and it offers overpriced camping to support it’s conservation work. The Sanctuary is home to many species of threatened wildlife including planigale, Gouldian finch and the northern quoll. We saw none of these. We did see plenty of other animals, birds and the aptly named rocket frog, whose aerial acceleration allowed it to escape capture from our mini Steve Irwin, Hugo. The cane toad has just arrived here, so it’s impact is as yet unknown, but seems to be taking an early toll on the large lizards. It was heartening to see this group doing such valuable conservation work over a large area of the Kimberley, when such a small area of it is protected as national park and much of the rest is given over to cattle grazing.

Green tree frogs in the men's toilet, Mornington

Froglets, unidentified, Drysdale River

The Kalumburu road meets the Gibb about half way along. Astonishingly this road leads to Kalumburu, but is also the access for the Mitchell Plateau, the site of Mitchell Falls, the largest waterfall in the region. The road into the falls is infamous for breaking axels and suspension as it is rough, allowing a speed of only 30km/h and less if towing a trailer. Partly because of this, we decided to leave our little collapsible home behind and check into a wilderness lodge up on the plateau. Setting out without the trailer, Tim hit the Kalumburu Road with such gusto that at one point the car became airborne. After 6 weeks in our trailer the safari tents with ensuite at the lodge seemed like luxury. The kids were terribly excited, especially when Hugo learnt that he would get to sleep on an innerspring mattress with a quilt!! 3 nights of 3 course meals, cooked breakfasts and no dishes was an indulgence. We visited the falls, doing the mandatory walk and the almost mandatory helicopter ride out, and had a full day off which the kids spent monopolizing the pristine swimming hole in the creek. Then it was back to the tent.

Mitchell Falls

Hanging at the pool, Mitchell Plateau

Lower Mitchell Falls from the air

Crossing the river to get to Manning Gorge hike

Big Merton's Falls, Mitchell Plateu

water lilies, Mitchell Plateau

El Questro Wilderness park is at the western end of the Gibb, and was our last stop. It is close enough to Kununurra that that we were able to make a resupply visit and embarked on out last 4 nights with fresh fruit, vegetables and wine! El Questro is probably the most well known location on the Gibb and this big (a million acres) property is big business. It's rather like a national park, but with the options of luxury accommodation, horse rides, restaurants, etc etc. We had a private campsite overlooking the Pentecost River, and from here dragged Hugo and Zoe on plenty of walks up gorges, swims in hot springs, and on the last morning we took a family horse ride, where Zoe's horse decided he was not going to cross the river but would rather eat grass, and Tim's watch sprung off his wrist mid water crossing.

Pentecost River Crossing, Gibb River Road (had to cross it 3 times to get this shot!!)

Just after watch recovery, El Questro

There were many other stops, all variations on the outback station/gorge/waterhole theme. 

Manning Gorge falls

El Questro Gorge

aboriginal rock art, Mitchell Plateau

kids delighted at bushwalking again, Mitchell Plateau

Zoe's second fish, Pentecost River at El Questro

The interesting thing about travelling this route (as with other similar routes), is that after a while you keep seeing the same people, again and again. Most people follow a similar itinerary so the people you meet whilst they may disappear for awhile, will suddenly pop up again at another spot down the road. 

Most photographs I had seen of the Kimberley must have been taken in the wet, with lush green vegetation and huge waterfalls. The reality in the dry season is dust. Everywhere. Through the trailer, in your ears, up your nose. At some locations the dust was combined with thick smoke from burning off. It was welcome change to get to some lawn and a hose at the other end.

morning smoke, Drysdale Station

Notable Wildlife Sightings: many many frogs, fish, salt water crocodiles, birds of all types, snakes, cows.

Gibb River Road Injuries: plentiful insect bites and violent scratching of such, a painful big toe secondary to prolonged wearing of thongs, a rolled ankle.

Earliest Grown Up Bedtime: 7:55pm